We will not share or sell your email address. View our Privacy Policy. You must be logged in to add a private note. Login Register. We are adding the pattern to your Knitting Patterns. Click here to view your Knitting Patterns. You must be logged in to save a pattern. Yarn care symbols can be confusing. When you see so many little markings on a package of yarn, it can be difficult to decipher what they all mean and how you should wash your knitted fabrics when you're done.
But these symbols are standardized for a reason, and once you've learned their meanings, you'll be blocking , washing, and setting your fabrics with ease. In order to make sure you care for your knitted piece as best as possible, take a look at this handy reference. You will find a straightforward explanation for all the most important symbols for yarn care in one place. Not only will you be able to tell how to wash the yarn, but you will also know whether it needs to be ironed, how to dry it, and even how to iron your garment.
Feel free to print out this guide and bring it with you the next time you head to the craft store to buy yarn. Knowledge is power! Download This Chart. Learn this method of setting dye with vinegar to easily stop yarn color running! Be the first to upload your own image for this pattern! I have not made this yet so I cannot rate it. Click the button above or drag and drop images onto the button.
You can upload two images. We are adding your Comments. Thank you for this. I know a lot of these care symbols also appear on some of my clothes, and I haven't ever bothered to figure out what they meant. Now, I don't have to. Saving this for future use. This is super helpful. I've always been mystified by fabric care symbols. I'm downloading this! What a great way to decode confusing yarn labels! I will definitely print this and take it with me to the craft store.
Wow, this is amazing! Yarn care symbols and clothing care symbols are so confusing. This is amazingly handy. Bookmarking for later. Are you sure you would like to report this comment? It will be flagged for our moderators to take action. This Trinity Knit Poncho Pattern really has the trifecta beauty, simplicity, and versatility. Join Us Today Forgot Password. All rights reserved. Register Now! Forgot Password? Log In Forgot Password? Log In Register Now!
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Take a note on your gauge and keep the swatch — if you choose to knit with the same yarn in the future, you already have this information. Are there any exceptions? There is always an exception to every rule so there are indeed certain projects for which those who absolutely hate to make gauge swatches can ignore the need to do so.
In general, exactly achieving the given sizes of accessories, such as bags, scarves or shawls, is not as important as it is, for example, for pullovers or cardigans, which need to fit well. But still, the style and shape of the accessory will be significantly influenced by the way they are knit.
In addition, the amount of yarn needed for a project is dependent on how loosely or tightly it is knit. If you knit loosely, and therefore use more yarn per stitch, it is possible that your yarn will be used up before the project is completed. If, toward the end of your project, you discover that you need to buy more yarn, chances are great that this yarn won't come from the same dye bath as your original yarn. Of course, needing more yarn also increases the total cost of the project.
For these reasons, we also recommend making a gauge swatch before beginning to knit an accessory, then changing the needle size, if needed. Ignoring the need to make a gauge swatch always happens at your own risk! Do I also need to make a gauge swatch for a crochet project? Our explanations above refer to knitting but a gauge swatch is just as important for crochet projects.
It is made and measured similarly to a knit swatch. Forgot to log in? Skip to main content. Join our community Already a member? Sign in. Welcome New member? These two know yarn inside and out both from the creative and the business ends. They know how to build a yarn, by hand and with a mill, and they know how to design knitwear, putting them in a great position to discern fact from guideline on a yarn label.
I asked Jill and Amy about the information on their yarn labels and how it gets there. We knew it all along. My sense has always been that only some label information is factual, and the rest is subjective, depending on lots of things.
I am looking for information to share to help knitters understand yarn and how it works with the rights and not-quites in knitting. These characteristics tell you how the fiber will feel, how and if fabric will drape, clues to durability, the key to how many skeins for a project, and a starting point for gauge.
Amy: The labels at Berroco have fiber content, yardage, weight, and country of origin. We also include washing instructions with the symbols. When we have found additional information really useful, we add that too. Jill: I include the most standard information, fiber content, yardage, weight of the skein, and suggested gauges. This explains why almost all labels have the same information. It was a little surprising that the government is involved in what goes on the label.
Amy: Berroco yarns are sold by weight rather than length, usually in standardized put-ups of 50, , or grams, except for some unique yarns. I then usually subtract about 10 percent of length for labeling purposes. Then, when I wash and dye the skein it constricts again.
A machine is great for the consistency of counting, but the skein is held under tension to hold it in place, stretching the yarn. The yardage is counted while the yarn is stretched, when we knit with the yarn it is under much less tension, so yardage is a little shorter.
How do you decide what weight classification fingering, DK, Aran, worsted, etc. Amy: Berroco labels the yarn following the Craft Yarn Council standard yarn weight system. We have been known to debate at some length the finer points of labeling a yarn as one weight classification versus another. There are yarns about which the debate continues even years after they have gone out onto the market. Jill: I think yarn weight is often mislabeled. I tell people that when subbing yarns the best practice is to match yards per ounce or grams per meter instead of a suggested gauge or labeled yarn weight.
This is our first really gray area on yarn labels. Clearly not every yarn company follows the Craft Yarn Council chart, and some choose not to use a weight classification on their labels at all. I see so many yarns labeled in a way that makes me mutter under my breath, before I even swatch. But I also understand knitters and shops need a shorthand way of organizing yarns, at least as a starting point.
The best way to know if this is the weight of yarn you need to get the gauge for your project is to swatch, especially if you are suspicious of the weight stated on the label.
Once there is agreement, we give the yarn to one of our team members, Brenda York, who is our swatching gold standard. Brenda then knits an official gauge swatch based on the needle consensus of the whole team. More and more, we like to push for dual gauges: a range with different suggested needle sizes. Jill: For me, gauge is just a suggestion. When I develop a new yarn, I swatch it on lots of needle sizes. Then I wash it and see what range of gauges I would knit the yarn for a project.
The range usually is in the middle of the reasonable gauge possibilities. Gauge is set by human knitters. Being human, even knitters who knit for their jobs have variable gauge.
They use different needle sizes, but they have to pick something to put on the label, so the company comes to a consensus on a gauge or gauge range, or has a person who is the gauge standard. The left swatch was made with the recommended needle size; the right swatch hit the recommended gauge—but required a different needle size.
IGSs are happy at multiple gauges. I talked about these lovely, versatile yarns in a previous article here on MDK. Amy: Gauge is such a subjective thing, because the truth is there is no right gauge for any yarn—there is only a right gauge for what you want to make.
The yarns are regularly rechecked. Colors are checked to be sure that dye lots are as consistent as possible from year to year. Yarn labels have information to be used as a tool: part fact, and part suggestion. You get to decide what works for the result you want. Learn to love or at least accept swatching. Thank you once again for a fantastic article. I especially appreciated learning how some yarns are measured to be put up.
Thank you!!! I find it very interesting that not all yarns are not measured the same it would give you a headache trying to figured it out. Terrific article! You have given me more great tools to help them succeed. Kate Davies had a post on this very subject recently, saying that she reluctantly puts suggested needle size on her ball bands only because knitters insist but knitting gauge is so individual it can be very misleading.
Thank heaven! Imagine being a less experienced, non-expert knitter and having to swatch by taking as guess at needle size to start. It may not be exact, but at least it gives you a place to start. I like having the suggested needle size on the ball bands, so I know where to start when I go down two needle sizes! Thank you for yet another fantastic article and what a cute vid!
Perhaps instead of abbreviated SW it needs to be spelled out, front and center. And wow, there is a difference. Again, thanks and love what you do! Despite that, they are so useful and gratifying! They support my knowledge-of-the-hands with an intellectual framework that will help me refine and fine-tune my knitting. Thank you! I enjoy knitting swatches because it creates the fabric that you may want to work with or not.
I only use the ball-band to estimate my yardages. The official swatch knitter at Berroco. Knitting a gauge swatch is like taking a car for a test drive.
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